Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.
It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.
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